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Now that you have a general idea of what there is to shoot when you get to the park, let's talk a bit about how I got there. It is possible to visit Jigokudani Yaen-Koen in a single day from Tokyo. Though it's a long day--17 hours--it's totally worth the effort. Start from Tokyo Station in central Tokyo. You can book a reservation--not required, btw--on a Shinkansen (Japanese Bullet Train) to Nagano. Non-reserved ticket prices are about 7,500 Yen one way. Reserved tickets are about 300 Yen more but don't necessarily give you extra perks. The trip is incredibly fast for a train. Only about 90 minutes to travel the 100+ miles including stops.
At the last stop in Nagano, take the Nagano-Denstu Line located right next to the JR rail terminal to Yudanaka. Ask the attendant to clarify which train goes to Yudanaka because some trains do not go all the way. As an aside, most train attendants will speak at least halting english, especially in the tourist oriented towns like Nagano. You shouldn't have any problems finding some one to point you in the correct direction. Yudanaka is the last train stop, takes an hour, and costs about 1230 Yen. Add that there was a 1 hour wait from arriving on the Shinkansen until the Nagano-Denstu train departed, the total time from Nagano to Yudanaka was about two hours.
Your next step is to take a taxi to the trail head for the Monkey Park or the bus. Either is immediately available right out the train station. Once figuring out how the bus system worked--once again by asking some one--I took the bus. Near the end of this leg, about 15 minutes, get off at the Kanbayashi Snow Park. Follow the road to the left about a half mile until it reaches a T intersection. Make a right and travel another 1/2 to 3/4 miles until you see the signs for the trail head to the Monkey Park. The trail is an easy 1.5 mile walk up a very slight gradient. The first 100 yards is quite steep but flattens almost immediately. I highly recommend a good set of waterproof hiking boots to deal with the snow and mud. You'll be much happier in the end. The path is picturesque in its own right with wonderful, peaceful pine trees, and a deep gorge located next to the trail. At the end is a small cluster of buildings and the location of my first encounter with the smaller of the monkey troops. Past this settlement is another 1/4 mile climb to the main warming pool.
You'll find at the end a small hut that houses an attendant who charges the 500 Yen entrance fee. The price is well worth the expense as I've noted before. All together from the start in Tokyo to the Monkey Park was 5.5 hours. The small hut in the park sells soft drinks and some Japanese snacks for the most brave. I suggest eating a hearty snack on the Shinkansen to Nagano to tide you over 'till dinner. For those wishing to stay longer near the park can find good lodging in Yudanaka. While it's a small town relative to Tokyo, it was a venue for the 1998 Nagano Winter Olympics and does have western style hotels for about 10,000 Yen per night. I'll add the park is only open from 8 am and closes at 5 pm. The warming pool is deep in a large valley and doesn't receive direct sunlight until well into the day. Those looking for sunrise and sunset shots will be disappointed and should look elsewhere than the Monkey Park.
I found Jigokudani Yaen-Keon an extra-ordinary photographic location equal to just about anywhere else in the world. While you may be disappointed by the unnaturalness of the highly acclimatized monkeys and the relative absence of fear they have towards humans, you won't find another accessible location with animals this cooperative. If you're given an extra day in Tokyo and looking for an unique excursion, Jigokudani Yaen-Keon will just fill the bill. Drop me a line if you have any questions.
Cheers
Tom
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