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Of all the unbelievable things to see in Japan, it's a close up view of a primate--I'm not talking your brother Joe or somebody--basking in the comfort of a hot spring. As crazy as it sounds, it's totally possible at a very special location not far from Japan's most famous city, Tokyo. Located about 100 miles to the west, this special park provides a wonderful opportunity to closely observe one of mans relatives. Add to that a snow covered winter scene, hot steaming waters, you now have all the ingredients for incredible photography.
Jigokudani Yaen-Koen translates to "Hell's Valley Park". I'm not quite sure of the association between the underworld and a nature park except to note the name might have something to do with the multitude of onsen (hot springs) in the area. Like most of Japan, this area is geologically active which makes for many sources of hot water bubble to the surface. Man isn't alone for loving these spots. Jigokudani is proof positive at least some primates love these springs as well.
JigoKudani Yaen-Koen opened in 1964 as a refuge for our most northern none human primate, the Japanese Macaque or snow monkey it is more commonly called. These snow monkeys make their homes throughout Japan's islands and are particularly prevalent in the mountains like the Japanese Alps. To provide an easy location to observe and preserve the monkeys, the park was created and is relatively easily accessed in good weather. The center of the entire park is a man-made warming pool that's frequented by a large troop of 200+ monkeys. There's another, smaller warming pool near the approach to the park that's populated by a smaller troop of only 50 monkeys. The warming pools are filled with water from near-by hot springs. While the snow may be high--up to three or four feet dependent on the year--and the temperatures low--well below freezing--the warming pool is a comfortable 90+ deg F which probably explains why the monkeys seem so content in the pool.
Like all primates, the snow monkey is a very social animal and their troops have all the characteristics of a small town. There's a hierarchy that seems to drive everything from feeding priorities to even where individuals sit in the warming pool. When there's a conflict, a difference of opinion if you will, the noises, scuffles, screams attract attention as if something major was going on. You turn to look and see a couple "discussing" who deserved a particularly choice spot in the pool. Nothing really big but interesting enough at first. All in all, this means there's lots to watch and photograph which makes the location even more attractive.
Jigokudani's warming pool is an amazing spot. You can literally photograph monkeys from inches away with wide angle lenses. When I initially arrived at the park and prior to seeing the warming pool, I encountered the smaller troop sitting by a path clustered around a warm water pipe. I took the normal precautions of any wildlife photographer by shooting from a distance, perhaps a dozen feet away. I cautioned my travel partner from approaching too closely at the risk creating a too "close encounter". I practiced all the normal precautions of working with any animal by not staring directly in their eyes, by being low, or appearing submissive. Not long after cautioning my partner, a couple of monkeys got up and walked, mind you not run, walked by within inches of my legs. If I had a tripod, they would've sauntered right between the legs. OK, clearly these creatures were very familiar with humans.
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